An island of emerald hills and electric-blue water.
Park the car, walk to a bay that holds the heat of the day, and let the light turn the water to glass.
Lefkada's south-east coast keeps a slower clock than the busy west. The road winds down through olive terraces to the sheltered coves of Mikros Gialos and Sivota, where fishing caïques rock at anchor and the tavernas set their tables at the water's edge. You eat where the day's catch was landed an hour before; the owner remembers your name by the second night — this is filoxenia, the old Greek welcome, still kept by heart here. Across the channel, Meganisi sits low and green on the horizon, close enough to reach for lunch and back. When the afternoon softens into the blue hour, the whole coast exhales.